Visited by Ulysses, conquered by Afonso Henriques, and celebrated in centuries of song, Lisbon is also the city of hills and ubiquitous Portuguese cobblestones, of steak at Café and sardines that feed all the saints every June, of fado and gingões that linger in historic neighborhoods, with words and intentions made of half-spoken phrases.

And all, or almost all, always with the Tagus River as company. Here is the postcard with the city's must-see attractions.